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Rising from Ruin is an on-going MSNBC.com special report chronicling two coastal Mississippi towns, Bay St. Louis and Waveland, as they rebuild after Hurricane Katrina.

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This project is evolving. Our daily dispatches coverage has been retired. Click here to see what happened in the area between mid October and January 1, 2006.

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BAY ST. LOUIS - The crystal glasses, china plates and heavy silverware at the Sycamore House on Main Street come as a pleasant shock to residents and visitors weary of eating church-provided meals, MREs and fast food off foam plastic plates.

The restaurant, in a historic 145-year-old house on Main Street, suffered almost no damage in Hurricane Katrina and reopened for business two weeks ago with a skeleton crew, limited menu and shortened operating hours.

Business was brisk Saturday night as owners Michael and Stella LeGardeur-Eastham completed their first full weekend since the storm with diners filling all tables in the Provence Room and spilling out onto the screened-in porch despite the chilly weather.

The young couple opened the restaurant three years ago after graduating from the famed Culinary Institute of America and struggling for a time in the fiercely competitive San Francisco market.

They retreated to her parents’ house in New Orleans and discovered the yellow, twin-gabled house on a visit to Bay St Louis and saw their destiny -- as many couples undoubtedly have before them. The gracious home has served the seaside city as a succession of restaurants, inns and bed-and-breakfasts.

“When we saw the home, we just fell in love with it – without saying anything to each other,” said Michael. “We both have always wanted to have a restaurant.”

The restaurant quickly gained a reputation as one of the city’s finest with its classically inspired menu of items like chicken piccata, shrimp remoulade and beef bordelaise.

The main problem now is staffing. Michael worked madly in the kitchen Saturday night, serving 67 meals single-handedly, while his wife tended bar and his mother took care of their 19-week-old baby. He hired three high school students to bus tables and work in the kitchen, but he has no line cooks, and the staff is half what it normally would be.

Despite a sharply limited menu Saturday night, the food was excellent. Steak au poivre, prime rib and shrimp won rave reviews, as did the exquisite crème brulee.

But most important was simply having a fine dining option in a town where food has always been an obsession. “All people ever talk about here is what I had to eat yesterday, what I’m going to eat today and what I’m going to eat tomorrow,” said Wendy McDonald, a Bay St. Louis native who has returned here to help spearhead the rebuilding process.

The Eastham family rode out the storm in Dallas, Ga., and when Michael viewed satellite pictures afterward his view was obscured by trees and he thought their home had been destroyed. But the water only came up to the second step and the building suffered only minor damage from wind and rain.

“We were very, very fortunate,” he said. “This house has now made it through all the tropical storms.”

The restaurant scene in Bay St. Louis and Waveland is improving day by day, with the recent opening of a Domino’s in a trailer, Southern Delights Creole-style food, Los Tres Amigos Mexican and Chopstick Chinese.

But there is nothing quite like the Sycamore House, with its full bar, impressive wine list, perfectly cooked steaks, and oh, did we mention the crème brulee?

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29 COMMENTS

Nice feel-good report. Quickly return to big-picture situation in Louisiana: FEMA failure, Haliburton's Louisiana failures, continuing effects of no-bid local contract awards, lack of housing for survivors. There are too many other issues that need intense attention. Spare me the sugar coated stories until basic services are returned to people living in the area and sustained rebuilding efforts are in place.

Yes, nice feel good story. Yes, the situation is still raw for most people, but doesn't this give people some hope?

We know how people that don't live here might think about an article like this - we see reality every day and don't have a lot of choices of where to go to get away from the disaster. I was just thrilled to find out that they are open again. Personally, I think it was a great item to report. We are getting plenty of "intense attention" constantly. Please, more happy stories every now and then.

There is nothing "sugar-coated" about this story. It highlights the importance of "normalcy" to the people who are living in the surreal environment of a destroyed community. The article also correctly highlights the difficulty of finding workers, which is an ongoing problem that may delay reconstruction.

man keep on cookin we are about ready to come down and eat

In response to Johnny Gaston in Washington:

I definately agree that the residents of the Gulf Coast need some respite from the devastation that surrounds them. AND I know about the food. I spent most of my life in New Orleans, then resided in Waveland and Long Beach for about seven years before relocating up here to Alaska.

Although I've never seen it, I know that must be a great little restaurant, and I hope to go there one day. I think it's wonderful that the Easthams have reopened!

But what prompted me to write is the distinction Mr. Gaston fails to make, (and I think many others fail to make it, too) between New Orleans, and the Bay-Waveland area. They're not the same. Each has it's own personality, it's own demographic, it's own social "credo." For example, the people of southern Mississippi don't like to ask for help, whereas the people in New Orleans expect it from their government.

People who are not from the area might think that LA and MS are just all the same big area, but they're not. Having lived there, I know that New Orleans is but one of the things that make LA and MS different. Both are different from the other side of the LA Gulf Coast, too ~ the area that sustained damage during Wilma.

The website, "Rising from Ruin" has nothing to do with Louisiana. It's about the people of Waveland and Bay St. Louis, although in this they ARE like New Orleanians: fine restaurants are a "basic service!"

Food is the essence of the Gulf Coast and the rebirth of restaurants and the people are stories well worth reporting. Thank You!

It is very nice to see that the media has some sensitivity, and is able to see, and report some good news. The fact that businesses are now open is inspiring, and encouraging for people who are uncertain about their future and what will become of the city.

I am thrilled Sycamore house survives! I have enjoyed delightful business lunches there in the past and look forward to many future meals there. Struggling to get normalcy back into our lives cannot be understood by anyone who does not see the huge piles of debris; destroyed vehicles; vanished homes; dust, dirt and mold; and all kinds of things in places and positions they should not be every single day on the way to and from work. Praise the Lord that he has blessed so many of us. And God help us help those who need it. A BIG Thank You to the proprieters of Sycamore House for helping Hancock County residents get back to normal life. God bless you!

To Johnny Gaston in Morton, WA: These people are doing exactly what the folks in LA need to do. They are getting on with their lives and looking for the government to do it for them. I know what the folks in Bay St. Louis are going thru - 95% of my entire family lives down there. Gulfport, Ocean Springs, Biloxi, Bay St. Louis, etc. And I talk to them regularly. You live in WA State, just as I do, so give them a break!!

There is nothing "feel-good" about the hard working, job producing, tax revenue producing, dedication and perseverance of a couple like Michael & Stella. Instead of crying and looking for a handout from our government, they are busting tail to be productive and self sustaining. Yes, they had less damage than most, but its folks like them that will help bring these towns back. Feel Good? Just ask Michael & Stella after a recent day's work! Hats off to Michael & Stella!

JD: I agree that it probably doesn't feel good to make 67 dinners at one time, but he's smiling pretty big. The feeling he's probably getting helping those who have been eating MREs for 3 months I'm sure outweighs the long, hard hours or he wouldn't be doing it? Nothing feel-good? I disagree.

AS an outsider of the USA, I am happy to read this article.It indicates to me the beauty of human beings in their struggle to persist,survive,and command their lives.My dream to visit this devastated area ,that it is reborn out of disaster commands my respect,and wander.Hurrah for all the Americans ,like this struggling and winning couple.May they and their descendants remain and prosper.

Two weeks prior to Hurricane Katrina we had our wedding reception in this quaint little restaurant. Michael and Stella did such a wonderful job and when we saw the hurricane headed for Bay St. Louis we worried and prayed that The Sycamore House would be untouched. The second day we arrived in town after the hurricane passed we drove past the restaurant and saw that it was still standing amid all the tree limbs on the ground. Michael and Stella thank goodness you are well and we plan to return as often as possible for your great food and nice hospitality. These two people are just part of a larger group that wants to get back down to business and help themselves in finding a solution to the larger problem at hand, they are not looking for handouts or someone else to come in and fix the problem. Great job and we hope to see you two in the near future.

Glimmers of hope are what get humanity through the toughest of times. This is a glimmer of hope and a dream that prospered.

I concur with many who have posted already. I am from Ontario, Canada and I get saddend daily with the misery that surrounds this devastated area. God bless those who can recover so quickly. I hope they get the employees they need and have to expand the restuarant...it is refreshing to see some GOOD news out of this area for a change. Go Michael & Stella!

WE evacuated to Baton Rouge during the storm and when we heard how terrible it was on the coast we had a sick feeling for all those we knew who had homes on or near the water. Later in the day we began to recall the places that must have been destroyed, The Good Life, Fire Dog, Dock of the Bay (which had recently been bought by a couple from Southern Calif.) and Daniel's South Beach just to mention a few. Someone said that maybe Sycamore House had survived because of location away from beach. Sure enough, when we went to 2nd Sat. art walk there she stood, I took a picture and e-mailed to my friend. I had no idea that it would be open again soon. We really enjoyed going into the "big city" of Gulfport/Biloxi but had decided that we really enjoyed driving across the Bay of St. Louis or going to the restaurants at the harbor in Long Beach. Just getting one of these back makes me have a good feeling about the future.

Bar humbug to those who think this story shouldn't be told. If you want the "bad" stuff, just read the front page of MSNBC.com.

Yay yay yay Michael & Stella! I must be really hungry; I'd love to have one of those meals about now!

Hey! That's my big brother! Tre photogenetic!

Being a member of this family I find it offensive to think that they didn't go through times as hard as others in this hurricane.

"Basic services" Yeah, um, who else thinks food is a basic service? How many hands? Oh, everyone? Yeah that's what I thought.

"Sustained rebuilding efforts" that's what they are trying to do, rebuild the economy of BSL. Rebuilding an economy is just as important as rebuilding physical structures.

At one point they thought they weren't getting cooking gas back for a year, and then what were they supposed to do?

FEMA took way too long to put up the tarp that covers a huge gaping hole in their roof.

And all this while trying to care for a newborn baby, (Hey Alexander, sup little man!)

Hardship is hardship no matter what way, shape, or form it comes in.

Lucky, yes. Looking for handouts, no. I mean who in their right mind would try to accomodate 67 people while being understaffed? My brother that's who, and he is crazy, but super-determined. If only more people could be like him, maybe they'd be out helping and doing some good, instead of complaining.

It's through their great luck, perserverance, and countless hours on the phone that got them up and running.

I tip my hat (if I were wearing one at the moment, of course) to my big bro-heim. *Kisses* Miss ya.

If for just 1 or 2 hours people feel like they are back to normal, it was worth it. Hope is a basic need of all humans and this wonderful couple provided hope in the only way they knew how. For themselves and the people they served. Good for them. I don't normally comment online to these things, but I believe that this story was worth the extra effort. May the Lord bless you and keep you both in the palms of his hands.

A great story about the restaurants that are open in Bay St.Louis. My daughter and I are heading down there mid December to volunteer and we were prepared to bring all of our own food, but I just copied down the names of all the restaurants which are open. Why not eat there and help their economy. This is all part of getting back to normal. Sure, most people are without homes, I understand that and eating out seems frivolous to some, but when put into context of their economy and bringing people back to town, it is an important step. God Bless you all...I love this website...

Glad people are coming around and getting their lives together. I wonder if the gator would have been welcome to visit this restaurant and enjoyed a respite along with the other citizens. (A reference to the "Gator and the Living Room" story and all the liberal wackos who couldnt believe the animal wasnt allowed to live)

Cheers to the wonderful people running this restaurant in Mississippi. What a message of hope! But I don't think it is fair for B. Cardillo from Anchorage, AK to say that people from New Orleans expect hand-outs from the government. Comparing New Orleans (which is a much bigger city) with places like Bay St. Louis is like comparing apples to oranges. New Orleans, even with all its beauty and history has always had a great deal of poverty. Pre-Katrina, the education system in New Orleans basically stunk in the poorest areas of the city and illiteracy and often lack of high-school education only kept the poor poor. So many of those that lost their homes in the hurricane had unskilled, low-paying jobs with little hope in attaining anything better. Then when their homes and possessions are taken away on top of mostly likely losing the jobs that barely paid for the house they once had, what choice do they have but to go to the government? I know because I have spend a great deal of time in New Orleans and my sister lives there. She lost her home too but she has not yet gone to the government for assistance. Financially, she was in a position that she didn't need to but had she been in that position, she would had just as difficult of a time asking for assistance from the government as the people from the Bay St. Louis area, and she too, knows how lucky she is to not only be a survivor but also a survivor who already had some financial resources to draw from in a time of crisis.

Peggy, we welcome you and your daughter to the Gulf Coast of Mississippi. I am always so touched by each person that has or is coming here to do what they can to help. A lot of us are just now starting to come out of shock and face the dreaded reality of the situation. While you are here you will find some of the most wonderful people around. I lived in Miami and Dallas before moving here quite a few years ago. You would definately have loved the Bay/Waveland area, that is the first place I lived when arriving to work at CSC at Stennis. If you get the time and want to try some restaurants over in Harrison County they are starting to come back now. Several were washed away that were located at the harbor in Long Beach and at least one (Long Beach Lookout - now called Long Beach 49) from that area has reopened on Hwy. 49 in Gulfport. You will not be disappointed with the people that you meet or the food that we prepare. Thanks for coming and have a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Yay! I am a former employee of the Sycamore House and know this family very well. Words cannot express the great joy I have for these and all people who have begun rebuilding what was once the town and community that I love most. I am away at Mississippi State University and have no plans as of yet to return because I no longer have a place to stay, but my heart and my prayers go out to all friends and neighbors who are doing the best they can with what they've got.

One big woohooooo to the Sycamore House! I have been feeling kind of blue about everything being gone. We were there in October to help muck out my parents' home in Waveland. I saw the restaurant still standing & was hoping these folks would find the courage and stamina to reopen. This brightens my day and gives us all hope! Looking forward to enjoying another terrific meal there in the near future. Everyone who hasn't been there, I highly recommend it. Top service and outstanding cuisine.

Congratulations to the re-opening of the Sycamore House! To have a fine meal is more important than people want to admit. It can temporarily transport one from their circumstances and in those moments they have some respite! These folk are also contributing to their community through providing jobs for some as well as hope for others!

Michael: I hope you read this Thread on a regular basis. I celebrated my 64th birthday at your fine place with my companion Liz Sparks [she picked up the tab] on May 31st 2006. We dined in our 'work garb' and you treated us like Royalty. We were part of the 'Eight Days of Hope' group that were there in May 2006 for Katrina Relief Work. Well, be prepared---We will be returning December 15th 2006 to do more work and My most loved companion Liz and I will return to dine with you once again during our week of work. We not only savor your fine food but your 'down-home' welcome that is present during the entire stay. We look forward to seing you and your staff within the week.

Congratulations, Michael & Stella for still working hard and crating one of my favorite restaurants in the Southeast! Of all the things that survived the hurricane, including my grandmother's house, I'm glad to see that your establishment remaines one of the highlights of the Mississippi Gulf Coast. A trip to your restaurant alone makes a trip to Mississippi well enjoyed. I hope to see you all again, soon!

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