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Rising from Ruin is an on-going MSNBC.com special report chronicling two coastal Mississippi towns, Bay St. Louis and Waveland, as they rebuild after Hurricane Katrina.

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WAVELAND, Miss. -- Mardi Gras preparations by the Krewe of Nereids are usually a closely guarded secret, with the elaborate decorations and themes for the organization's flotilla of floats hidden inside a 80-by-100 foot "den" at the tail end of Birch Street.

Not this year, though. Though the physical address remains the same, only the den's concrete slab remains.

Despite the lack of accustomed secrecy, the Bay St. Louis-Waveland Mardi Gras parade took place as scheduled on Feb. 19 despite Hurricane Katrina's best efforts to sabotage it. But as far as the all-female Nereids Krewe is concerned, what was to have been the organization's 40th anniversary of parading didn't really count.

"We wanted our 40th anniversary to be really special, so we're just kind of pretending this isn't really our 40th year," says Sue Ashman, a Nereids officer. "It's our asterisk year. We're just here for the party."

It's a party that Hurricane Katrina nearly canceled with her horrible, all-encompassing storm surge and brutal 100-mph-plus winds. The storm shoved the Nereids tin structure down on top of the floats, but then it just sat there and probably saved them from total destruction, Ashman says. 

The Krewe hired a private contractor to remove the debris from the floats, then they got busy doing what they do: fixing up and refurbishing them for the parade.

Float-building offers 'therapy'

"This was the second place I came after I went and saw there was nothing left of my house," says Cyndi Meyer. "It’s been therapy for me to come back here. You can really only look at your own destroyed house and your own debris for so long. Every day (working on the floats) you’re seeing progress of some kind. It may be small but it’s something and it’s not debris."

The Nereids usually runs 22 floats during Mardi Gras, but this year they could only field a dozen. A few other floats were entered as well and escorted by a smattering of marching bands and dance groups. Some 49 floats -- including three usually only seen during St. Patrick's Day -- participated this year, down from the usual 75 to 90 floats, says Judy Brooks, a parade organizer.

Click ‘Play’ to see and hear Cyndi Meyer, an officer from the Krewe of Nereids, explain how the damaged floats were rebuilt and why this year’s parade is so important to the communities of Waveland and Bay St. Louis.

Nereids members had to work under an extremely tight schedule and make do with limited materials. "Usually the floats are much prettier," Ashman says with a sigh. Nor was there a ball or fancy, outrageous costumes. Just some sweatshirts, stenciled with glitter gel.

But if this year's festivities were a scaled-down version of the real thing, you couldn't tell from the enthusiasm of the crowd -- several thousand strong but down from the 20,000 that typically flood these towns. They lined both sides of the main highway and set up camp on the median strip. The cops also closed off a 10-mile stretch of the highway; if you weren't going to Mardi Gras you weren't going anywhere.

Trucks with tailgates down turned into impromptu reviewing stands. The crowd got well into the spirit, starting around 10 a.m.

'What disaster?'

“What disaster?” one reveler shouted to no one in particular while toasting the sky with a huge champagne flute.

Apparently there’s nothing like bangles, beads and a hint of sexual titillation to make one forget death, destruction and devastation … at least for an afternoon. Welcome to Mardi Gras, Katrina style.

Though this day belonged to celebration, Katrina intruded in the occasional conversation. Two old friends greeted each other, trading hugs and handshakes. “Saw you got your place up for sale,” one was overheard saying. “Yeah, hate to do it, but I just can’t think of any other way though now; just done run out of options, you know, gotta leave,” said the other, his voice cracking just a bit, his mind already trying to sort through the complex emotional calculus of leaving behind a lifetime and having to start anew.

But as the parade commenced, gloomy thoughts were shattered by raucous frivolity that is uniquely Mardi Gras.

By all accounts the parade was a huge success, but one that will forever be accompanied by an asterisk in the Nereids' records courtesy of Katrina.

"The real (40th) anniversary will happen next year," Nereids officer Ashman says with assurance.

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90 COMMENTS

Hurricane season 2006 starts in a few months, might as well toss a "party" now...
only one question...
after getting hit last year, are you ready to go through it all again in 2006?
party on dudes....


Bless everyone in New Orleans who did not lie down and give up the chance to celebrate Mardi Gras this year. Your spirit is an inspiration to us all!!!

It is a time to celebrate, keep your spirit up Hancock County things will get better, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the bright colored floats, the throws and the music. It's just the right kind of therapy at the right time. And you are absolutely right Hurricane Season 2006 is just around the corner "celebrate Life for all that it is worth." Never let the bad times over ride the good times and memories of our community. Life will go on after the party is over. Great to see the parades and smiling faces.

Way to go, my friends. I wish I could have been there to cheer you along. My thoughts and prayers are always with you. I know many will not understand the point of all this but I do. Keep on rolling !! Happy Mardi Gras !!!

I was so lifted to see my daughter laughing on Sunday the day of the Nereids parade.Just for a couple of hours her mind was clear of all the trauma she has been through.Her family lost everything as with everyone else that was there that day. Bay St. Louis is my husband and my hometown. Marianne Boswell was raised there.School, church, friends and most important her family.Her smiles lifted my heart for the day. May God Bless the wonderful Gulf Coast."Mardi Gras From The Ruins"

What in the world are these people thinking. Mardi Gras is a sinful and wicked celebration. What we need to do is to rebuild and help the peolpe. America stinks!

wow! I think that it is so great how everyone's spirits are up even though this tragedy happened.I envy all of you.

I was born and lived in New Orleans. Mardi Gras is for the rich to have a show of elite snobs. Go to a ball and watch the waste of money. Why don't the krewe captains get off the floats, drop the booze and have the members, who have plenty of money, start using hammers and nails to rebuild. They can drink their booze and work in their fancy costumes if they want to, but that is positive. Invite all these people who want a change, like me, to party with them as they help rebuild. Give out their beads and trinkets to those who work or supply food or drink or just moral support. I also had a home in three sections due to trees cutting my home in half. We all suffered. After the above action is taken, people will feel better about themselves and then on ash Wendsay, everyone can go remember those thousand who lost their lives and pray that they will get themselves and their homes back together.

J.B.,
its a miserable shame that you cannot allow those devastated people a moment of respite. A small window of brightness in an otherwise trudging existence of tearing down and cleaning up their destroyed homeland and culture.Give them a moment to rest and catch their collective breath before they continue to rebuild something that has meant something to them for generations. let them have a little minute to bond again as a community, prior to returning to living conditions that most regular folks couldn't or wouldn't endure. Doing It All Again because it's home. Always was. Always will be.

Mrs. Dornhofer,
surely you should acknowledge that Mardi Gras is a vital economic engine to the area spurring the largest income producing area - tourism. this has been the gentlest, most family-oriented time i have seen in my times since the 60's when i was a kid. think about the chance to remove or at least tone down the trauma. and believe me, we businessmen are getting hit at least as hard as you "little people" !

What has happened to all of the money raised for New Orleans and the rest of the Gulf Coast connunities?

Dubai gve 100 million dollars. Now that should have fixed a few of the buildings or roads that were destroyedw, not to mention all of the other donations. Surely the bottom line had to be in the billions.

I was born and raised on the beautiful Mississippi Gulf Coast, and am now away from home because I am in the military. I can't be at home but I am so happy to see that my family and friends back home can stop for a moment and celebrate Mardi Gras. That alone lets me know that there are strong people who aren't going to let anything get them down. I'm glad that they can take their minds off of Katrina for a moment and remember that there are things in life to celebrate. I am grateful to know that people aren't going to let this storm keep them discouraged. Celebrate what you have instead of concentrating on what you don't have! Party on! My hat's off to all of you! :)

I appreciate the parade organizers in both New Orleans and Waveland. Day in and day out, we are dealing with debris and total devasatation. Mardi Gras has been the one thing that I have looked forward to for the past month. It is one thing that is representative of our past normal life. It was great to take a break from the daily routines of Katrina recovery to participate in something that is representative of our past normal life. Thank you.

I'm so glad the dredges of society have found a home. Where would we be without a legal place for public intoxication, public nudity and public urination not ot mention all the professional women of the country. Bless NO hope they all stay there. So glad this is where they spend all the money they don't have to help the people who lost everything from Katrina. Maybe it's time to look at priorities.

Greg, how would you spend 2.7 million dollars if you were in charge. Throw a party or help people who need it??

Am I mistaken, or do some of you people STILL have the impression that the entire Gulf Coast of Mississippi is some sort of suburb of New Orleans? This story was about Mardi Gras in Waveland/Bay St. Louis MISSISSIPPI! And as to the "sinful" crap, most of Mardi Gras in Mississippi is family oriented, to the point of having Kids Krews. I wish some of you would pick up a map of the USA and figure out what the heck you are talking about before posting. geeesh!

To D of CO:

How dare you call us the "dredges of society"!? In case you haven't been payin' attention, this year's Mardi Gras was more family-friendly than anyone can ever remember. You live in rubble and trash and mold and mud and toxic substances everywhere for six months and THEN see if you still think that a few brightly colored floats and high school bands and celebrities throwin' beads right atcha(!) doesn't make it a little easier to go back to the war zone. As for all the professional women of the country? Some of New Orleans most elite and current generations of some of the oldest money in this country along with the city's smartest and highest paid professionals (i.e.: lawyers, doctors, stock brokers, get it?) work all year to put floats and costumes and beads and parties and balls together because Mardi Gras IS New Orleans, along with gumbo, jazz, riverboats, and even voo-doo. Priorities?! We are not in danger of dying from rubble or mold, but from depression that can steal your soul and kill you from the inside out. Save your tsk! tsk! for Anna Nicole Smith appearing before the Supreme Court - THERE'S a priority out of place.

D from CO - it's fairly obvious you're not a local, because you only know about the small part of Mardi Gras that occurs with the tourists on Bourbon street. What you don't know is how my family, ever since I was young, would go out together in the weeks leading up to Mardi Gras, have a picnic on the neutral ground, and watch the amazing floats go by, catching what throws we could. You don't know how how we'd laugh, talk, and meet the numerous other families around us as the kids played together. Mardi Gras for most locals is a time of celebration with friends and family, not public nudity and urination. It's been one of the only breaks in a city that certainly needs it. I hope you come down to NO one day and see it for the great city it truly is but you'll have to lighten up a little first...we're pretty easy going down here. Let the good times roll!

D,Co - the cities of Waveland, Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian, Long Beach, Gulfport and Biloxi are in Mississippi. They are not a part of New Orleans. The spirit and determination of the people of the Mississippi Gulf Coast to rebuild after Katrina is inspiring. We are rebuilding with the help of hundreds of faith based organizations. Not one federal dollar was spent on the Krewe of Nereids parade. This parade happened because of the determination of the ladies of Nereids to give to their community one day of what would be normal at this time of the year. Before you judge us come down and get to know us.

We've been flooded by Georges, ravaged by Ivan, took a direct hit by an F2 tornado eight weeks later, received nothing from FEMA, Red cross or anyone that wasn't freind or family. We celebrated Mardi Gras with a Chili cookoff that all enjoyed. To all of the hatefull hippocrites the begrudge anyone SOME enjoyment in their life I hope you know what and where to kiss!

How can people argue about the partying, besides getting a break and lifting their spirits, don't you all realize New Orleans lives off tourism? Mardi Gras is the Main event. If they don't keep that money coming in, the businesses fail and the city dies... get it?!

I know they all need a break. Texas was the first to reach out to all of Louisiana but wasting all the money on floats - this money could be used to help unite all the citizens to push the administration to quickly repair the levees and build up protection around the cities. Where have all the donations gone. Is there any accountability for what is being spent on re-building - or is it just free for all - who you know - are they the ones collecting the money and then pocketing it instead of putting it where it was intended. Citizens of New Orleans, Southern La, Mississippi - UNITE!! Tell the talking heads in DC that you want action NOW!!

Mardi Gras is a tradition much like Christmas. I see a lot of comments here about spending money on Mardi Gras and not spending it on rebuilding.

I guess what I am asking "is it any different to spend money on one tradition and not the other".

I have seen families with nothing spend money for toys at Christmas not becuase they had to but because it would give their children a bit of happiness, so a few hours spent celebrating with floats and throws is not a bad thing.

If you look at your life if its all work and no play it makes you old way before your time.

In the end those fewer happy times are all we have.

Having just actually participated in a prominent Mississppi Gulf Coast Mardi Gras Parade, what really amazed me were the thousands of "dudes" from places like Michigan who drove or flew all the way down here with their entire families just to "party on" with us!

Mardi Gras is not put on by the government- it is put on by private citizens who are members of Krewes. Money is not coming out of poor people or taxpayer pockets to pay for it. I was shocked at how many Thank Yous I received as a rider along the parade route. Mardi Gras is a huge part of our culture and needed to happen for morale sake. Normal will exist again.

A big thank you to all of the volunteers going into these areas to help people rebuild their homes. The caring seen from everywhere has been an inspiration to us all as Americans.

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