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Rising from Ruin is an on-going MSNBC.com special report chronicling two coastal Mississippi towns, Bay St. Louis and Waveland, as they rebuild after Hurricane Katrina.

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BAY ST. LOUIS, Miss. – If the trees could talk, they would tell us everything.

Silent, gnarled sentries, the live oaks of the Mississippi Gulf Coast have seen it all. Since well before they beckoned Spanish and French explorers with their massive limbs like welcoming arms, the oaks have been dutiful witnesses to the timeless cycle of birth and life and death. And hurricanes.

Of Hurricane Katrina, 20 months after she unleashed her fury, they have two stories to tell. One story is as plain as the leaves on their branches. Denuded by 120 mph winds, the oaks now bristle like happy Chia pets.

“Last summer, you saw no green,” says Bay St. Louis artist and businessman Mark Currier. “This year, look at the live oaks!”

As with the oaks, the outward signs of human recovery are visible all along the coast.

Locals are planning the biggest party they’ve ever thrown to mark the opening of the new $267 million, four-lane Highway 90 bridge between Bay St. Louis and Pass Christian to the east. The nearby CSX railroad bridge has been open for a year now and freight trains rumble daily through town.

While the occasional jolting juxtapositions of stairs to nowhere and toilets on slabs remain, the breathtaking piles of debris that clotted the landscape after the storm are gone. The cleanup efforts, subsidized by billions in government spending, are in their final days.

Fast food and box stores

Between Waveland and Bay St. Louis, there are more flavors of fast food than you can shake a stick at and a healthy number of more refined eateries. There is still no stand-alone grocery store in either town, but the Wal-Mart in Waveland, forced into a circus tent after the storm, is back in its building and busting at the seams with everything from pineapples to patio furniture. Kmart has reopened, and a booming business in building materials is being done at a new Lowe’s and Home Depot as well as several outlets that pre-date the storm.

Tax revenue from gambling also is helping the battered local economies, through the reopened Hollywood Casino in Bay St. Louis (formerly the Casino Magic) and a new 5,000-square-foot casino at Bayou Caddy, attracting thousands of gamblers and generating millions in new tax revenue.

Housing construction has been slow, but skeletons of wood and steel are more numerous than they were six months ago, with the largest efforts still coming from volunteer crews and the Habitat for Humanity program. Little has been done to replace the hundreds of rental units lost to the storm but plans for new projects are emerging in both the public and private sectors.

In Bay St. Louis, city employees have moved out of their temporary post-Katrina City Hall at the Old Depot and regrouped on Highway 90 in the former Coast Electric compound, also home to a new police station. Late last month, the City Council approved a $14 million contract to replace utility lines in the downtown area.

While still governing from a collection of portable buildings at Coleman and Central avenues, Waveland is forging ahead on big-bucks projects to rebuild utilities and restore the devastated civic center complex at the old Waveland School.

Scant activity in downtown cores

The downtown cores of both cities remain very light on business and commercial activity, a fact laid mostly to post-Katrina insurance issues.

The beaches are clean and the cries of gulls fill the air at sunrise while wading fishermen stalk the shallows. Soccer moms meet like they do everywhere to stroll and confer on the jogging path along Beach Boulevard. The warm spring temperatures are luring ever more sunbathers, picnickers and swimmers.

But the live oaks – and the people of the hurricane zone – have a second, inner story that can’t be so easily seen and understood. As storms have battered the trees across the centuries, roots have shifted, trunks have twisted and limbs have curled in ways that are no longer apparent. Long after Betsy, Camille, Elena and Frederick, the oaks hew to the force of their winds and so too do the people.

It is no different in the aftermath of Katrina.

Just how it plays out is hard to divine. You cannot bisect hurricane survivors and look at a neat record of concentric rings for when and how they were wounded, healed and changed. But there are signs and there is talk, although most of it not on the record when a reporter is notebook-in-hand.

For some, it is a real sinking spell. Depression, drinking, drugging, marital discord, troubled teens -- they have seen much more of it all since the storm swept through. The situation is especially bleak in FEMA trailer parks, according to a recent study, with suicide and violence sadly common.

There is more suspicion about who has profited in the aftermath of Katrina, who is trying to pull a fast one. There is disgust with gouging landlords, agony over skyrocketing insurance rates and soaring utility bills. And there is constant distress over being forgotten by most of the nation and harshly judged by the rest of it.

Nobody 'has a fight left in them'

“I just think everyone is tired,” says Michelle Allee, an artist who displays her work in a Bay St. Louis gallery. “I don’t think anybody has a fight left in them.”

In political affairs, tensions are flaring over a Bay St. Louis City Council redistricting plan and Mayor Eddie Favre’s choice for a new police chief. Townsfolk mutter at each other under their breath at council meetings. In Waveland, Mayor Tommy Longo’s citizen detractors nitpick virtually every city decision from their folding chairs at sessions that recall the old admonition against watching sausage being made.

What are the inner stories here, coursing like sap through lives that have been entwined forever? “These people have known each other all their lives,” warns one transplanted county resident. “You don’t know how much of this is Katrina and how much of it is who beat who up in the first grade.”

And as old feuds and rivalries have been exacerbated by Katrina’s fallout, some unlikely new alliances have been forged.

It is a time of great soul-searching along the coast. The frantic hand-to-mouth pace of immediate survival and initial recovery has slowed. There is time for reflection, time to look for slivers of meaning as carefully as if they were shards of a precious heirloom smashed by Katrina into the red Mississippi clay, but an heirloom that might be pieced back together.

Some are wondering why they stay. It is at the top of a long list of perplexing questions. Should I rebuild? Should I reopen my business? Where? Why was my house spared? Should I feel guilty? Am I crazy? Are we all crazy?

No Cliffs Notes for this test

Even the most introspective seekers can find themselves puzzling like freshmen lit majors over a Faulkner novel. But there are Cliffs Notes for “The Sound and the Fury.” Not for this.

Just as we must wait to see when the leaves come back and then, wait much longer to see which direction the trunks will lean and the branches will grow, only the future will reveal how Katrina has changed these people, these towns, this coast.

Now, a new storm season is on the horizon, predicted to be “very active.” Whether a major hurricane spins out of the Atlantic, across the gulf and slaps Mississippi is anybody’s guess. But the possibility is on everybody’s mind.

When the winds do come again, in a year or in 30, the live oaks will be here as they have always been. They will shudder, they will bend, they will crack, and they will let loose their leaves in the howling breath of a new legend whose name awaits on an alphabetized list.

Then the trees will grow anew, and more will be revealed.

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209 COMMENTS

To Chris Eldridge of Harrisbury PA:

Mr. Eldridge, I was a teenager living in Greenwood MS when Camille made its direct hit in the Mississippi Gulf Coast. We were awakened in Panama City FL and told to leave. Greenwood is five and one-half hours from the Gulf Coast and damage was sustained there. Camille was considered a hurricane all the way to Memphis. To where would you suggest that all the people between the Gulf Coast and Memphis move to escape the fury of a hurricane? To where would you suggest that all the residents of coastal areas in California, Oregon, Washington state, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Maryland, Virginia, Rhode Island, New York, Massachusetts, Maine and Washington, D. C., move? Well, actually, lets just let the people in D. C. stay.

Having moved from Savannah, GA to Diamondhead, MS, which shares its zip code with Bay St. Louis, I thought about how much I would miss the beautiful trees that lined the historic district there. Even though I do miss them, to watch the beauty of these Live Oaks return to their natural splendor is something I wish everyone could see. This is a glorious place in the midst of rejuvination by the grace of God.

My wife and I have been to the area twice since Katrina, once just after the storm and again back in January. The people who have a grasp of the situation have gone to work and are improving thier situation,there are many who expect others to save thier bacon and simply sit and moan help me, help me,those were most likely on welfare or some other assistance program before Katrina and aren't likly to change.One of the families one our churches list was a 67 YO woman who had a 35 YO daughter and 5 children living in a FEMA trailer all on public assistance. The 67 YO had been on some form of public assistance for more than 40 YRS the daughter and her 5 children had been on public assistance all their lives, how can anyone help these people,they aren't asking for help they're asking for a handout,they say they need a car they already have food stamps. Everyone in our group encountered families such as these,there's very little public housing available and almost no section 8 housing,they don't have any desire to move so theres not much help that can be given.

Why are people being allowed to rebuild in an area that in a few decades be closer to water as oceans rise? I think there should be a setback area all the land along the coast that had homes destroyed should be taken in "emminent domain" proceedings and turned into memorial parks and land for all the people, not for huge view blocking resorts and high rise condos. I love being near the water too, but, once it is washed away why do the tax payers have to rebuild personal property. I wish I could get a free house, I am disabled vet and can not buy a home, will someone please build me a house on the outer banks please? Nothing too elaborate 5-6 bR, access to the beach(private), and possibly a boat dock or pier so I could fish? Pull all those taxpayer mobile homes down there anchor them securely and those people will have homes already paid for and rotting and molding in a field someplace!

I,m going thru hard times too and it's easy to give up , but don't give up you've come a long way baby. Folks before us suffered far worse to make us what we are today. You CAN do it. To heck with the torpedoes, Full speed ahead! Give your problems to God She won't let you down.

Although it has been two years, we must all remember that it took many many years to build what was washed away so suddenly. We haven't forgotten those of you down there who are still trying to put your lives back on track. And don't even consider those that say you should forget your life and memories down there, home is home! Your roots grow much deeper than the foundation of a house or business. Your memories are the ties that bind. Good Luck to each of you

I am so grateful that MSNBC is still covering the recovery of the Mississippi Gulf Coast. I left 16 months after the storm … I didn’t have the strength to stay through the recovery process.

A part of me will always miss the Coast from my childhood, but I am proud of the Coast, the strength and grace with which it is rebuilding (thanks in large part to the generosity - financial and otherwise – of the rest of the nation and world). For me, the fact that the Coast will recover was made tangible through one of it’s more unusual (but beautiful) recovery efforts … turning some of the Live Oak stumps left along Highway 90 into beautiful works of art (http://growabrain.typepad.com/growabrain/americana/index.html or http://www.thechainsawartist.com/stump.html).

Thank you, again, to MSNBC for keeping the Gulf Coast and its battle alive in the mindss of those who haven’t seen it firsthand. Thank you, also, to everyone who has prayed, donated, or volunteered. I hope that in your lifetime, you need never see the favor returned … but if you do, know that the citizens of the Gulf Coast will be there.

I'm a former owner of a house on Terrace in Waveland. . .a house I lost in Camile. . .Katrina is just another chapter of misery for those who choose to live there by the sea. . .they will recover as before. . but inevitably they will endure another storm. . . .more heartbreak. . .it seems the prudent course is to leave and live elsewhere in safe haven.

So many responses to this article! I could not help but notice how many of them were from volunteers that have been to our area. I would like to take this opportunity to say THANK YOU to the thousands that have helped us in our recovery. I personally had four different volunteer groups that came to my home to help me pull carpet, throw out furniture, cut up fallen trees and fences,and more. Sometimes too much media attention is spent in the political hooplah that surrounds something like Katrina. I wish there was a way for more attention to be given to the positive side of all that came to our aid. THANK YOU VOLUNTEERS!!!!

My husband and I just returned from a visit to Bay St. Louis, MS. Our daughter lives there and is rebuidling. It truly was sad to walk the downtown area and see all the unique shops gone. They had, are trying to revive, a "First Saturday" celebration once a month. It was "First Saturday" and they were preparing for the Event. Very few shops remain to participate, however, they are still trying. As we walked and visited with the remaining residents our daughter was terribly saddened when one of the remaining shop owners told her that he and his wife were leaving. They were moving to PA, I believe. It is so very hard for them to lose another friend/resident even if it is by their choice to leave. They have lost so very many and so very much, however, as Suzanne S - Scottsdale, AZ stated in her comments - "I have witnessed the spirit, determination and hope of the amazing people of Mississippi and Hancock County. I can say what most of them will not (they are perpetually gracious in the face of the extraordinary circumstances they have endured.)". My sentiments exactly! These are beautiful and loving people - most of them are from MS and NEVER want to leave no matter waht! God Bless Them and keep them in the palm of His Hand!

Being raised along the Gulf Coast I have witnessed my fair share of hurricane destruction. I was a young boy during Fredrick in Loxley, Al. I was a teen-ager during Elaine in. During Katrina my wife and I were (and still are) in Live Oak, FL. I miss the Gulf Coast and the people there. It hit very close to home for us. My brother in law and his wife had their home ruined and my wife's parents and family had to flee to a northern county to escape the carniege. There house and property was spared. However, the agony of waiting over a week to know if they were alive or dead was gut wrentching. It is awesome to personlly see the growth and progress, slow it may be. When I go back to visit there are new stories to hear and sights to see. The people are coming back and so will the coast. Someone made a comment about New Orleans not getting much attention. I disagree, for weeks we had to wait to hear about the Mississippi Gulf Coast. all that was on the news was New Orleans. I have been to NO several times and I enjoy the city. However, there is one thing a little different, "the drive" to be what it once was before the storm. N.O. was not a pretty city beyond the glamour spots. It has it's fair share of "bad areas." The areas on the Gulf Coast are driven to once again be pristine. I greave for all the souls and and damage that was caused/lost. It was an awefull event however, with the love of Christ and the guidence of our Lord the Gulf Coast from Pensacola to Galvasten and every where in between will be better then before. Thanks for listening to me rant.

I visited Biloxi last month and was amazed at the devastation still in place. I did see the beautiful and majestic oaks--a living testament to Mother Nature's glory. A friend of mine who is a resident there took me around the city and answered my questions along the way. A lot of the people in the areas that continue to be devastated and have not been able to get assistance are the same people who have gone with out working (and paying the taxes that have given them recovery money), did not have home owner's insurance and lived off of the government for entire lives.The government's ability to determine their income level for assistance has been greatly undermined byt this. My husband and I are raising three girls are are by no means wealthy--we both work and pay health, dental , life and disability insurance along with car and home owners insurance. We would have a lot more disposable income if not for all of these safety nets that we keep in place for our family. I am not an uncompassionate person--but it is what it is, and those of us who have always done the right thing continue to have to hand over our hard earned money to those who have thumbed their noses at this lifestyle.

i would like to know where all the money went i cannot understand where hundreds of millions of dollars went. money from other countries the charity hospital is still down boarded up why? we really need a strong person to see what the hell happened and why and get things moving in that area

Is there anybodyout there that could tell me the following?
1. Why our landing craft U.S. Navy and Marines wasn't used?
2. Why so much supplies where not used.?
3. why didn't bush stage recuse ship the next day?
4. why does this Gov't send so much money and time helping non americams?

A great website for information on the live oak: http://www.sfrc.ufl.edu/4h/Live_oak/liveoak.htm

0ur thoghts and prayers are with you all

"Where has the money gone? Halliburton? This should be a much bigger story. We need weekly "lack of progress" reports." CW, Cocoa, FL

CW, please do not comment on situations you know nothing about.

NO will recover but on their own timeline. I can assure you the lack of progress has nothing to do with President Bush. Nawlins is Nawlins.

Katrina erased the buildings not the spirit, not the history, not the families, and certainly not the food.

Thank you God for the recovery of the trees. God bless Mississippi and God be with NO. That beloved area is a significant part of my family's life.

To Chris in Harrisburg, PA: I guess you'll be needing to leave Harrisburg and relocate- Hurricane Agnes hit Pennsylvania on June 22, 1972 and led to the worst natural disaster in state history. Agnes' floodwaters surrounded the recently completed Governor's Mansion in Harrisburg, Pa., forcing then Governor Milton Shapp and his wife Muriel to flee.
And you- doug f in Alexandria, VA- I guess you'll be wanting the homes and businesses in Old Town to close up and shut down because Old Town Alexandria floods everytime it rains more than a few inches, leading to increases in tax payer $ to account for repairing roads, drains and pipes.
And Molly Jones- please don't pin your rising insurance rates solely on hurricanes- there are numerous reasons why insurance rates climb, make sure you include natural disasters such as earthquakes, wildfires and tornadoes, and yes- the "500 year flood". By the way - those of us in low-lying areas pay exorbitant amounts of insurance to live where we do. We realize it's part and parcel of where we live. But if each state banned people from living in certain areas because a nautral disaster previously took place there, I fear there may be very few places across the Unites States people would be allowed to call home.
It is easy to sit back and judge and blame the victims. People do it all the time. But that doesn't make it right. I'm sure that if someone took a long look at your lives and your choices, you could be judged just as harshly. Try some compassion, you may need some in return someday.

To those who say we need to abandon the gulf coast I have a few questions:

Who will build our Navy ships if we leave?

Who will catch your fish, crabs, shrimp and other seafood if we leave?

Who will unload your bananas, kiwis, and other exotic fruits and vegetables if we leave?

Where will your oil, gasoline, propane, etc. come from if we leave?

If you don't mind giving up ALL of these things and more, then we will leave .... but think of the price YOU will pay for this action!

Bob K., Yes Live Oaks are a separate type of oak which are hurricane resistant. They are large, have a long life, but are slow growing. There are also Laurel Oaks and other varieties that are not as storm hardy but grow faster.

Molly, You arent paying the premiums for us in the South through private property insurance. Most of the insurance companies have segregated thier operations state by state so they and you don't share the loss.

The federal floodplain insurance program is a nationwide program. Most people rely on the floodplain maps wich can be found in most libraries and building departments. The town relocation you mentioned was paid for through a combination of federal and state money.

The hook is that the maps are typically based on a hundred year flood plain determination. The problem is that you can have four storms which exceed the 100 year threshold or you can have no storms that exceeed the threshold in any given storm season.

By the way property insurance rates in some coastal of florida have in quadrupled.

I was born and raised in Mississippi and have remained proud of my Deep South roots. Until the day I die, I will always say, "I'm from Mississippi, but I live in Houston".

The way the people of the Mississippi Gulf Coast have handled the tragedy of Katrina has made its mark on the American public. You did not moan. You did not groan. You have taken a positive approach to go foward and rebuild your lives as best you can.

You are to be applauded for not succumbing to the antics of many in New Orleans. You have been silent soldiers who have marched on to try to acheive the rebuilding on your great state.

In answer to Bob K in Pittsburg, about what is a live oak, the live oak is a species of oak, Quercus virginiana. Florida has about 15 different species of oaks. Louisiana probably has that many or more. To read more, you might want to go to the University of Florida Agricultural Extension Service website that has a lot of info on oaks... http://www.sfrc.ufl.edu/Extension/pubtxt/for51.htm#liveo.

I was born and raised here in New Orleans. Take it from me, 20 months later, the New Orleans Ninth Ward is a deserted wasteland. How is it that Waveland (which has no levee protection) appears to be on a comeback trail? A new report just last week indicated that an elderly woman in New Orleans, just received her FEMA trailer. Rev. Jesse Jackson stopped at her trailer (next to where her house "used to stand"). On the same news report
the poor lady now lives in a deserted area. At night, she has no neighbors.
Unkeknownst to most people, the Ninth Ward had many educated older people who were homeowners. Although I appreciate the fact that Rev. Jesse Jackson organized a protest march here this past Saturday, in the same week, we are told that the U.S. squandered and/or refused Katrina aid. Miss Condy Rice, our respected Secretary of State responded "well, we aren't used to receiving aid." Ms. Rice, when people are in need and are living in such dire circumstances, it is not the time to be proud. That comment was SINFUL. That is the current adminsitration's problem. PRIDE. On a local note, the local media also announced that $47 million in grant money is being made available TO DEVELOPERS to come into the city for ecomonic development. So, as we can all see, the City plans to move on without the New Orleans Katrina victims who, some 20-months later, are still not home. The State and the Feds have no interest in seeing those victims come back to the Big Easy. Consider the $1 Billion approved for rental assistance for evacuees. There is no housing here in the city, and just last week, the media reported that federal housing discrimination laws were violated by land lords. So, not only do the carpetbaggers have carte blanche, the diverse New Orleans will be no more. Uptown (Magazine Street and its vicinity) remains unscathed, and to walk around as an educated AA in this city, to be black and walk up Magazine street seems to be surprising to the residents who are not of color. To uptown, there was no tragedy. Additionally, educated folks who remain in the city face high rents, those who buy homes cannot afford insurance on their homes (and the big insurance companies are denying claims-- aren't they supposed to pay claims?), and those who call attention to these disturbing trends find deaf ears. Shame on Bush and his Bushy cabinet. And Condy, how dare you!!!

I think the whole situation is crap and we should stop talking about it.

Mr. Stuckey, you are a very good writer. Your article about the live oaks took me right into the heart of the area and the experience. And your "Chia pets" simile is one of the best I've ever seen.
I'm an editor, so thanks for brightening my day!

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